Tokyo Powder began in 2008 when its founder, Yamamoto, began experimenting with different blends of chalks. After realising that climbing performance is massively affected by chalk performance, Yamamoto set about to create a superior friction chalk to what was available at the time. Out of a small corner of a climbing gym in Tokyo, the first chalk PURE was created and sold, and Tokyo Powder was born!
For many years Yamamoto continued his experiments and research and, in collaboration with some of Japan’s elite climbers, began to engineer and create a series of high performance chalks. In 2014 Yamamoto’s attention turned towards antiperspirants and the role they have in a climber’s skin and performance. This year marked a turning point in climbing chalk as Tokyo Powder’s flagship high-friction chalk, BLACK, was created.
By now the brand had grown significantly, and rumours of Tokyo Powder’s superior friction qualities had started to spread throughout the globe. Leading the field in high performance chalk, Yamamoto continued to pursue new avenues in his search for the best possible friction…..
So is Tokyo Powder better than other chalks on the market?
What sets Tokyo Powder apart from other chalk brands on the market is not just the noticeably high friction qualities of their chalks, but the fact that there is such variety in the range available. Each chalk differs in its nature, texture and ultimately the way in which it might help the climber on their way to sending their climbing project. Each Tokyo Powder chalk is derived from sea water, so it has a far smaller environmental impact compared to mined chalk, as well as being a purer, high quality magnesium carbonate.
Which Tokyo Powder chalk is the best?
This will depend on a couple of factors - your skin type (sweaty or dry), and the climbing conditions (indoors on plastic, hot, cold, dry, humid or damp). Each chalk will excel in certain conditions, so it’s case of finding the one or two chalks that will perform exceptionally for you.
PURE - The first high quality, sea water derived chalk from Tokyo Powder. It’s a great option for those predominantly climbing indoors or in dry, sunny conditions. A fine powder chalk which gives a good covering over the skin.
BLACK - The next level in high friction chalk, BLACK takes Tokyo Powder’s pure magnesium carbonate and engineers it with Japanese Onsen water to give you very stable chalk. Under the microscope, BLACK’s particle sizes vary greatly which contribute to its high friction properties. Dry skin, sweaty skin, indoors or outside in dry hot weather, BLACK is a go-to choice for many climbers looking for a high end performance chalk. A fine powder chalk giving great coverage on your hands and superior friction.
RX - the first of the specialised chalks in Tokyo Powder’s range, RX undergoes a series of hydration and dehydration cycles to produce a chalk with sticky properties. This chunky chalk excels in dry conditions, and those with neutral to dry skin will benefit the most from its effects. Aimed at giving a high performance grip on low friction holds, RX wins through in particular on limestone, indoor plastic holds and woody boards.
V3 - A game changer for those with sweaty skin or climbing in damp/ humid conditions. Developed for the humid climate of Asia, V3 offers a unique chalk which has a cooling effect on the skin as the chunky lumps are broken up. It has some seemingly magical properties which enable the climber to stick to holds when all other chalks would have sweated through. A personal favourite of mine for when the humidity is high, or the limestone is condensing.
SUPER. B - Super BLACK, a combination of RX and BLACK chalks to give a stable, high friction chalk with the extra sticky properties of RX. A soft, fine chalk with tiny micro granules, SUPER B is a firm favourite of the Tokyo Powder athlete team, especially the competition athletes! Suited to dry or sweaty skin, SUPER B gives a great covering of chalk on the hands for bloc after bloc.
ZERO TT - The most recent addition to the range from Tokyo Powder, ZERO TT has been engineered to be their most stable chalk to date. For those looking for a chalk that can handle ever changing conditions, ZERO TT provides long lasting grip throughout routes or long problems, with only minimal chalking up needed. A fine chalk that’s a go-to choice for any route climber.
BOOST - Often called ‘the real cheating’, BOOST is Tokyo Powder’s super sticky, chalk based primer. Combining magnesium carbonate, salts and water, BOOST gives an insane level of sticky friction. An exceptional tool for climbers with neutral to dry skin, this resin-free primer may just be the magic bullet you’ve been looking for!
REACT - A liquid based primer, Tokyo Powder REACT is a brilliant primer for those with sweatier skin. Spray onto your hands, let it dry and chalk up. It enhances the friction performance of the chalk, at the same time as inhibiting sweat.
Tokyo Powder - The higher grade chalk
If you’re looking for that extra friction between your hands and the rock, then the Tokyo Powder range is definitely worth exploring and trying out. A bit like how you might have different climbing shoes for different styles of climb or tailor your shoes to the footholds, the extensive Tokyo Powder chalk range allows you to choose the optimal chalk for whatever you’re climbing based on the condition of your skin (sweaty or dry) and the climbing environment around you.
